Does Cancel Culture Preach That We Should Separate The Artist From The Person In The Fashion Industry?
In the dim glow of the Parisian night, a shocking scene unfolded outside Le Perle bar in 2011. A renowned creative artist unleashed strongly opinionated anti-semitic and racist remarks to a couple, captured on film. The video resurfaced weeks later and news about the event spread like rapid fire, revealing that the person in front of the camera was none other than an intoxicated John Galliano, king of fashion, uttering the incomprehensible words, “I love Hitler”. In the ensuing weeks, the fallout was swift. Galliano was fired from his role as Creative Director at Dior, facing media scrutiny and criminal charges in a French court for his reprehensible remarks. The fall of Galliano, one of the first facing such consequences, marked a turning point, an era where the impact of one's words and actions resonates through the lens of “cancel culture”.
John Galliano in Paris
In recent years, we have witnessed a recurring pattern where creatives, celebrities and public figures face repercussions for their inappropriate remarks. Although the familiar saying, "Those who fail to learn from history are doomed to repeat it," remains widely acknowledged, it sadly seems that individuals with social influence occasionally find it challenging to grasp its concept. Alexander Wang, renowned for his brand's association with the nightlife scene, faced accusations in 2019 from multiple individuals for alleged drugging, sexual assault, and inappropriate touching. Although he initially denied these allegations, the designer later issued a statement expressing remorse for his actions. Following the scandal, Wang's presence in the industry notably diminished, with retailers such as Nordstrom and Net-a-Porter distancing themselves from his brand.
Similarly, the controversial artist Ye, formally known as Kanye West, constantly seems to be in the news. Including recent antisemitic remarks made in 2022 that cost him partnerships with brands like Adidas and Gap. His behavior on social media platforms further exacerbated the situation, leading to restrictions on his accounts as well as losing his record-deal. One of several examples of this was his statement “white life matters”, which seemed to take a toll on his reputation. Despite his talent and influence, these incidents demonstrate the impact of irresponsible behavior on one's career and public image. Ye later apologized on social media for his actions.
Later that year, Kanye’s fellow colleague and friend Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s creative director, released a holiday campaign that went viral on the internet. The campaign included pictures of children holding teddy bear handbags in bondage gear and photos of paperwork about child pornography laws. Arguably understandably, this caused an appalling response, to the extent where the brand ambassador Kim Kardashian stated she would reconsider their collaboration. Demna also posted a statement taking responsibility for the actions and clarifying that the intention was not the ill intent that he was magnified for in the media.
Despite the significant impact of calling out “bad behavior”, it appears like the public's concern extends little beyond the initial outcry. In 2022, Wang staged a comeback with a fashion show, marking a resurgence in his career. Notably, models like Gabbriette Bechtel and Julia Fox participated in his fall 2023 show, with Fox even defending him on TikTok. Furthermore, Kanye West's recent collaboration with rapper Ty Dolla $ign on the album, Vulture 1 exemplifies the immunity against these scandals, as the entire album soared to the top of both the Billboard Hot 200 and 100 charts. These achievements stands as a testament to the ability to rise above past controversies, as long as something spectacular is created. Not surprisingly, Kim Kardashian stayed as ambassador for Balenciaga, and celebrities continued to wear the brands garments on red carpets.
In a unexpected turn, cancellation can serve as an effective marketing tool. For many consumers, the allure lies not just in the artist's talent that allows them to comeback, but also the debates, drama and spectacle surrounding their persona. Brands and creatives often push boundaries, stirring the pot to fuel curiosity and discussion about what is right or wrong, thereby attracting attention. Even though this may not be publicity in their favor, attention drives consumption, and consumption reinforces the artist's relevance. Masterfully so, they seem to succeed, since it has become common practice for individuals or brands to adopt a strategy involving a carefully crafted PR statement expressing remorse, followed by a period of laying low, before reemerging with new creative endeavors that showcase growth. It raises the question: Does cancel culture preach that we should separate the artist from the person in the fashion industry?
Arguably, the creative abilities of brands or artists catapult their financial success to the extent that business leaders may find it challenging to let go of the economic profit they generate. For example, following Kanye’s departure from his Adidas partnership, the brand continued selling the Yeezy collection, underscoring the belief that such visionaries are irreplaceable in a way. Nonetheless, there will inevitably be more incidents that warrant scrutiny through the lens of cancellation. These instances serves as a reminder for brands to stay accountable for their influence, as traditional media may shy away from holding them accountable due to commercial interests.
On the other hand, there needs to be a space in the media for forgiveness and redemption. While social media has the power to hold individuals and brands accountable, it can also trigger a domino effect of harsh critique and boycotting. Striking a balance between accountability and forgiveness is essential. As all humans, we need to allow the people in the wrong to acknowledge their mistakes and permit them a second chance. While putting heavy emphasis on not forgetting past extravaganzas, this underlines the complexity of navigating in the cancel culture.
It has now been 23 years since the incident at Le Perle bar, and in that time, we've witnessed artists shifting between the shadows of the spotlight. It’s become a fact that artists can often rise above cancellation through their sheer genius or financial success. Arguably, instead of viewing cancellation through a black and white lens, we should embrace the colors of a redemption. Thankfully, John Galliano still roams around the streets of Paris, soaking in the city's boundless creative energy. Despite his tumultuous past, his journey through the cancel culture storm ultimately served as a catalyst for growth and reinvention. His spring 2024 haute couture collection once again served as a breathtaking testament to his artistic abilities. While only few people were permitted inside the show venue, those watching online were transported into Galliano's world as well, confirming that even from past mistakes, a remarkable power can emerge, birthing something truly extraordinary.
